How do we define a Surfer? The obvious definition would be: one who rides the waves on a surfboard. But….. that is too simplistic and ignores other styles. Bodysurfers are a significant number of people around the world. They may argue that they are the most “natural” breed since it is simply their body and the wave which gives them their sport. Board surfers will say they are the only “true surfers” because it is an art of riding each wave using their surfboard to carve out a line according to how the wave breaks and the size of the wave. These surfers use the “walls” of the wave, the crest of the wave, the tube created by a breaking wave, and generally do not like the whitewater. Then there are those who use a sail to generate themselves and their board across the water. It is simply another way of surf riding and great to do where waves are not available. Some use both the waves and the smooth surfaces which is an art in itself.
When I think of a surfer, these words come to mind: Freedom, Waves, Saltwater, Nature, Natural Looks, Joy, Good times, Positive Spirits, and Love of the Art. You will think of other words; I am sure.
The average surfer uses a surfboard, body, and a skateboard when flat. If the surf is flat waterskiing comes into play. Many surfers snowboard also. How do we define surfer? They are many ways, but generally it is a male or female, young and old who loves to enjoy the freedom of the ocean and the nature. We are blessed to have something like this to enjoy. Gives us your input in the comment section below.
Author of Surfers’ Love Story
Photographer: Dylan Jurusz