The Raw Energy of Mother Ocean
While I was watching the news last night, I caught the trailer for Chasing Mavericks. This is the new movie coming out in theaters that highlights the time in Jay Moriarty’s life when he first surfed one of the most famous waves on the planet. For those that don’t know, Mavericks is a wave off the coast of Santa Cruz, in Half Moon Bay. This phantom right-hand breaks off one of the cliffs a few hundred yards out. The wind is howling, the air is freezing, the water temp is creeping into the 40s, and there are school bus sized Great White sharks lurking jut below the water’s surface. Why someone would actively put themselves into this kind of scenario? Well you’ve got to ride one of these giants to really understand the rush that comes with big wave surfing.
This movie is releasing at a great time in the surfing world, as big wave season is now upon us! Places like Waimea, Sunset Beach and North Shore Oahu are all experiencing much larger than average surf due to the typhoons off the coast of Asia and the Hawaiian Islands. These storms push giant walls of water towards the islands, giving us these daily jaw dropping spectacles of mother nature’s true power. Recently, Billabong Pro Shane Dorian took to the break known as Jaws, and paddled into a 25 foot monster, barely escaping with his board, let alone his life. You can watch the epic ride and read more about it Here.
So what drives a person like Shane to want to endanger themselves like this? Multiple reasons, one of the biggest being respect. The Hawaiian surf culture is one of the oldest and most tradition driven cultures on the planet. They believe in respecting the local population, and the ocean itself. At the same time, the local hierarchy is dictated largely by word of mouth. Word travels fast on these islands, and a big wave story like Shane’s would travel like wildfire. His death defying act earns him a little more respect from his peers, and I feel for one that it is well deserved.
Be sure to keep a close watch on our Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram feeds in the coming weeks. We, along with Billabong will be posting daily videos, photos and whatever big wave media that we can get our hands on. We’ve only got a short season when it comes to these giants, and every single wave counts. Also check our site regularly for discounts, deals and free giveaways!